On a recent trip to Paris this November, G and I were lucky enough to have booked a lunch reservation at Les Papilles, a tiny wine shop/bistro. Perhaps it was a morning spent exploring the wonders of the Musee d’Orsay, or the mad dash we had through the Luxembourg Gardens to make our reservation, but we arrived at the restaurant absolutely famished.
We were greeted by a very attentive host, who quickly wedged us into the only 2 remaining seats in the house. Then came the food: magical concoctions shrouded in utilitarian names: “Zucchini Soup” was ladled around islands of eggplant, lardons, feta, crème fraiche, cilantro, thyme and croutons; “Chicken Fricasse” was bathed in a basil-infused cream sauce and served with roasted vegetables; “Panna Cotta” was ethereally light and served with caramelized bananas.
I was really excited to see Les Papilles mentioned in the heading of the “Paris Mushroom Soup” recipe in Dorie Greenspan’s “Around My French Table”. I was even more excited that it was chosen as a dish for French Fridays with Dorie.
Like the zucchini soup we had at Les Papilles, Dorie recommends serving the Paris Mushroom Soup around a simple “salad” at the bottom of the bowl. And even more like the zucchini soup at Les Papilles, the Paris Mushroom Soup was much better than the sum of its parts! We served it was grilled ham and cheese sandwiches and a simple salad.
My only misgivings about this soup was that (i) the gills of the mushrooms give the soup a slightly odd twinge of colors; and (ii) I couldn’t get the soup smooth enough (even in a blender). Perhaps next time I will remove the gills (although this may prove to be a bit too much work for just an aesthetic) and pass the soup through a strainer.